When I finished my last piece about the visit to Belgrade we were heading for lunch. We had this at Prolece (pictured below) which is described by ‘Belgrade in Your Pocket‘ as “A restaurant known for its variety of ‘home-cooked’ meals and the grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), discoloured cutlery, and the occasional patched tablecloth, Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts a wide variety of customers – young couples in love, old folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, pennyless students sharing a portion – all united by their mutual craving for a warm ‘home-cooked’ meal. No music.” There were a variety of people present – watching them was interesting – and the food was very good but we didn’t think the interior was unseemly (decide for your- self from the picture right), our cutlery wasn’t discoloured and our tablecloth wasn’t patched. Plus the service was excelent and the food was not too expensive. Definately a place to head for if you go to Belgrade. After thawing out in the restaurant it was back out and on to the fortress on the hill towering over the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. (picture left shows a statue in front of the castle to thank the French for their support in the First World War.) The fortres was started by the Romans and centuries of sieges, battles and conquests have seen it razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. I had known there was a military museum at the fortress but was surprised on walking a bit further to find tanks and guns on display in the lead up to the fortress. (example below) We went in and saw the ramparts and gates as well as the symbol of Belgrade, a statue Pobednik (The Victor) and a memorial but missed the Roman well, whose waters claimed many lives. We did see the “stunning views over the rivers…”, well as much as we could in the snow. After the fortress we walked back down the Knez Mihailova Street, the main promenade ans shopping centre, named after one of the more enlightened rulers of Serbia who was assinated in the park between the street and fortress in 1868. A stop in a wifi enabled cafe and we returned to our hostel, on the way passing the Zeleni venac market. In the evening we decided to go out to eat for Valentines night as we would be travelling the next night and not able to do so. We went to ‘Na cosku’, described by ‘Belgrade in Your Pocket‘ as ” An exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food, but also for its first-rate serice and enjoyable ambiance…..the menu…. features carefully selected Mediteranean specialities.” It was very good, the food was wonderful, the service excellent and it all came to €35 with a very good bottle of Serbian wine. Somewhere else to head for if you are in Belgrade. The next morning it was still snowing but, by the time we had breakfast in the next door restaurant it had stopped so we went to the information centre at the Station to find the time of the bus to the airport and then, having time left, went back to the wifi cafe we went to the previous day and had coffee and cakes before leaving to get on the bus to the airport. An enjoyable visit to a European capital we will be going back to with great restaurants, friendly, welcoming people and sights we haven’t seen all of.
Pearl of the Balkans II